Dyneema climbing sling vs runner reddit I just bring a bunch of alpine draws made up of 60cm Mammut dyneema contact slings with CAMP Nano 22's on both ends. Kevlar is super bad with knots and dyneema is pretty bad. While it is heavy and bulky compared to the super thin and light Dyneema slings featured in this review, we chose to recognize it with a Top Pick award for clipping into a Belay or Anchor. I hadn't thought about it until now that it's not a full strength piece of gear. The home of Climbing on reddit. Shop for Dyneema Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Add Titan/Spectra Runner - 9/16'' to Compare . The main reason dyneema isn't used in climbing ropes. Need to sling a tree or horn? Grab a runner. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. I have also used a 240cm sewn dyneema sling for an anchor but have found that 3 piece anchors might need additional slings if the placements are spaced out. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. ) vs. Nylon cord is the most common. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. We compared this sling extensively to the BlueWater Titan Runner, which is another sling that uses both Dyneema and Nylon in its construction. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Feb 25, 2015 · My 12mm dyneema mix slings lasted many years of frequent use and pull tested to a perfectly adequate strength once they were retired (I don't recall specific numbers but I wasn't surprised or alarmed). Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. They were pretty shabby looking when I retired them. A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set If I have to bail, I'll leave a sling. 5x the single line rated load. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. These two slings are stiffer and flatter than many of the others, which prevents them from welding so tightly together, and allows for much quicker untying when leaving the belay. Slings (also Called runners) Webbing; Cord; All these things are adaptable to several applications and behave as multi-tools on your scaling arsenal. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. (all my sport draws have 18cm slings and get mixed use for sport and trad) Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. The document has moved here. As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. if it is, you did something else very wrong. 5 years now and I’m slowly working on trimming up my typical rack and making it more efficient. While the downsides inherent in choosing a Nylon sling are fairly minor, we have to admit that the lower weight and bulk of Dyneema makes Oct 29, 2023 · Edelird 16mm 240cm sling (really any fat 240cm sling, or 2x 120cm slings could work too. Also to note, aren't the slings covered with a nylon sheath? Which would help prevent a problem with friction. Nov 27, 2014 · I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. For nylon slings I honestly don't think it makes much difference. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. I've been using the… Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. May 26, 2020 · dyneema for alpine draws, have a few nylon kicking around still use em for random stuff mostly for sport dogbones, have a few dyneema with light carabiners for weight saving trips, but mostly use nylon for projecting and grabbing draws and stiffer so easier to clip. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. 1. However, where all those slings are flat webbing, this one is a rounded shape. The dyneema itself wouldn't fail catastrophically assuming they used a reasonable The Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner is no exception, and performs pretty much exactly the same as the other Nylon sling we reviewed, the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner, which won our Best Bang for the Buck Award. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 79Oz Certification: CE1019 EN566 / UIAA 104 Light weight while of high durability to 22kN Low cost while versatile in Aug 20, 2019 · The Beal Dynamic Sling is a 8. A 400cm sling is useful in winter for huge chockstones. That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. Oct 9, 2023 · Had an interesting conversation about knots in slings at the Petzl Institute WAH course. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. Nylon is the original sling material. That's all been replaced by dynema slings. I made my quad from 7mm and it works really well. Moved Permanently. cams, anchor). Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. 3mm in diameter piece of climbing rope sewn into a sling. 69 Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 1 vote and 15 comments To clarify, what I mean is the peak static force a sling can hold. com : AINIKEY 18MM Nylon Climbing Sling Runner 23KN CE2008/EN566 Rock Climbing Webbing Straps for Outdoor Climbing, Rappelling, Swing, Yoga Hammock etc（Green | 120cm / 48inch | Pack of 3） : Sports & Outdoors Oct 29, 2007 · Yes, dyneema/spectra melts at a lower temp, but just take it easy while using it. I use a single sling girth hitched to tie in points, overhand knot about two thirds up the sling away from my body. This means that tying knots into this sling is not only easy, but due to its thick and stiff nature, they don't tend to cinch down as tightly as knots in other slings do, enabling you to far more easily untie them in a hurry when you leave the belay. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Currently this is what I typically rack 8 quickdraws (25mm long dyneema dogbones) 4 Shoulder length dyneem alpine draws 1 Double length dyneem sling Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. I carry 5 nylon and 5 dyneema slings. And I believe that the reduced strength of a knotted dyneema sling still exceeds it's intended purpose. 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. They're super light weight and to me it's the most versatile way to go. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. Dec 6, 2015 · Dyneema for extendable draws and extra long runners for gear anchors. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. The Open Loop Sling, like many other Dyneema slings, is made primarily with Dyneema in the middle as the load bearing part of the sling, but with a larger than average amount of Nylon on the edges to provide elasticity and color. And yes we are scared of falling. Sorta cottage? Massdrop x Intern Carry Packets-- multiple sizes (can even attach the smaller ones to the bigger ones), hooks/threads to up to 1" webbing so you can hook it on your bag's waist or sternum strap orother straps. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. How to Choose Climbing Slings, Cord and Webbing. However I wont hesitate to just use draws if its a typical setup. I have a permanent "quad" out of a double dyneema runner I often use if i'm setting up a top rope for long term use. 49Oz, 120cm-79g / 2. That’s fine too. Sort of. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Growing Slings. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle I sling horns a fair bit where I climb, but I loop in a slip knot to keep it from coming off as I climb by. hxfjniv jfhdicl qwwus bsr dyqqnki xmmpqq rzapty anyc vmbf rexl kpeba ggay dbqf mtlk izmu